World Wide Will Galapagos Adventure – Day Three, Espanola Island
Posted on April 5, 2010
Ever find yourself daydreaming about turquoise water lapping over a stark white sandy beach? You know the dream I’m talking about. You’re completely alone, toes digging into fine sand and a temperate sun warming you from the outside in. The sounds of sea lions playing in the distance, barking at each other and splashing in the cool surf, are carried in on salty sea breezes. An old straw-hat shades your eyes as you gaze out onto a landscape painted by more shades of blue than you ever knew existed. That dream, my friends, is how the day ends on Espanola.
But, I am getting ahead of myself. Let me start at the beginning, breakfast aboard the Evolution. I am not much of a breakfast man. I will opt for an extra few minutes sleep over sausage and biscuits most any day. However, I have learned that you want a solid meal in you before you start the day when you are on an International Expeditions journey. First of all, you will have very few opportunities in your life to start the day with fresh fruit, real South American coffee and a perfectly fried egg. Secondly, when your to-do list for the day includes snorkeling, hiking and swimming with sea lions, you are going to need some serious energy.
After breakfast we suited up and boarded our pangas (small boats) and headed to a sheltered expanse of open water for some snorkeling. This first day in the water was more of a warm-up for the rest of the trip when we would be on some more serious snorkeling adventures. Nonetheless, the experience was fantastic. The water was so clear it was like swimming in an aquarium. Swarms of bright blue and yellow fish schooled around us and practically posed for pictures. Bright green sea urchins clung to rocky outcrops in fluorescent, prickly clusters and red starfish decorated the sandy ocean floor in aquatic constellations. Suddenly, we were joined by a couple of curious sea lions that raced by us leaving jet streams of tiny bubbles in their wake. One swam so close to me that the entire frame of my camera was filled with nothing but his whiskery chin. It was so exciting that only when my muscles began to burn did I realize that we had been in the water almost an hour.
Our return to the Evolution was as hospitable as always. Round tables draped in white linens hosted a bounty of skewered fruit, fresh pastries and icy, cold pitchers of fresh star fruit juice. We shucked ourselves out of our wetsuits and dried off with soft towels handed to us by the crew and settled into our fresh buffet. With the platters reduced to pastry crumbs and bare skewers we all headed to our cabins for a short siesta.
The clanging of the ship’s bell called an end to my nap. This was my cue that lunch was ready and it was time to start collecting my things for the afternoon excursion to the island of Espanola. Our arrival on the stark white sandy beach of Espanola’s Gardner Bay got my heart pumping. The sheer beauty of the island was almost overwhelming to my senses. Sea lions lounged in groups that dotted the beach and Sally Lightfoot crabs scrambled to get out of our way. Our naturalist took us across the beach and into the heart of the island. Along the way we saw Galapagos doves, Hood mocking birds and a few of the remaining albatrosses who had not yet left their nests. We also got a chance to see some beautiful Galapagos hawks soaring above – looking for an afternoon snack. When we arrived at the far side of the island we came to massive cliffs overlooking the Pacific.
Perched on the rocky cliffs were red marine iguanas. These striking red creatures are found only on this island. Hundreds of crimson red bodies stand out in stark contrast to the black volcanic cliffs. Juvenile albatrosses also line the steep cliffs as they stretch their massive wings out to catch the wind. These feathered giants are so large they need the height of the cliffs and the ocean winds to launch them into the air. Interestingly, once airborne, they will not land again until they return to the island next year to breed. Other notable cliff dwellers include the beautiful blue-footed boobies and the pirating frigate bird.
The view from the vantage point of the cliffs is spectacular. Sea birds of all sorts soar, dive and perch on the rocky outcrops. From here you can see how the frigate bird got its reputation as the pirate of the Galapagos. Less prone to fish for themselves, they ambush boobies in mid-air and steal their catches from them. You can also see Espanola’s famous blowhole as it converts the powerful dark blue waves of the Pacific into 90-foot columns of white frothy sea water. It is easy to see why the guides choose this vista as the perfect spot to take a seat and rest for a while.
From the cliffs we made our way back to the sandy beach of Gardner Bay to relax and take a moment to absorb all that the day has brought. The group disperses along the beach – each person finding their own sandy patch of paradise. It is here that began this post, resting my bones on the warm sand under the late afternoon sun. As I listen to the sizzling sound of the calm surf retreating from the beach and back into the baby blue waters of the bay, I let my mind go to making important decisions such as “Will I have a cold beer or a tart margarita when I get back to the Evolution?” and “Will I take my chosen adult beverage on one of the plush couches on the back deck lounge or in the warm bubbles of the hot tub on the front deck?” Decisions, decisions…
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Enjoyed this article as much as your first when I initially commented on your ability to write as though I were there. My wife and I are laying the ground work for a May 2011 trip to the Galapagos and Machu Picchu. Thank you again. Harvey