Talking Turkey

Posted on July 29, 2009
Filed Under Destinations, Travel | Comments Off

What to expect in Europe’s Up-And-Coming Cultural Capital

Words by Malaka Hilton – Admiral Travel Gallery

Moscow, Paris, Istanbul…that’s right, Istanbul! Now the third most populous city in the world, this up and coming cultural epicenter is projected to become number one by 2020.

Although Istanbul is rapidly establishing itself as one the wealthiest, youngest and hippest destinations in all of Europe, many Americans have yet to visit Turkey.  I, myself, had never really been until this year. I visited Istanbul over 10 years ago as a day trip off of a cruise ship; undoubtedly many travelers have done the same.  But those who have yet to venture beyond the ports of call into the heart of this wonderful country are in for a pleasant surprise.

Turkey is an absolute paradise of sun, sea, mountains and lakes.  It is a palpably different landscape, offering a complete change from the stresses of everyday life back home.  I had the opportunity to spend 10 days in Istanbul, Cappacodia, Izmir and Bodrum last June to prepare for a culinary program I’m escorting next year. In addition to our group of sophisticated world travelers, celebrity chef Roy Yamaguchi and Salvatore Ferragamo, winemaker and grandson of the famous designer, will be joining me on this tour, so I have to make sure every detail will be fulfilled to perfection.

Any preconceived notions I may have had about visiting Turkey immediately faded as soon as we landed in Istanbul. Upon arrival we were met at the door of the aircraft by three men in dark suits holding a sign that read, “Hilton Family” – we were fortunate enough to bring our children Alexandria, 7, and Carter, 4.  An awaiting golf cart whisked us down the long corridor to get our visas and then onward through Customs and Immigration. It was one of those experiences where I was almost embarrassed by the VIP treatment that we were getting, but of course I loved every minute of it!

Istanbul’s Anaturk airport is much cleaner than I was expecting and very well organized. In only 20 minutes, we’d exited the jetway, breezed through the luggage carousel and were seated comfortably in our luxury mini bus.  Cairo is the only other place where I’ve experienced this is kind of welcome. I am half-Egyptian, so I guess I expect it there. My husband Ryan reminded me that my grandmother was Turkish, so maybe there is a connection here, too? In any case, it was a wonderful beginning.

After about 45 minutes in some pretty heavy weekend traffic we made it to the brand new Four Seasons Hotel Istanbul at the Bosphorus (http://www.fourseasons.com/bosphorus). This hotel is pure luxury – very “5 star” and definitely delivers to the standard that Americans expect of a Four Seasons.  Room categories here range from Standard to Deluxe Garden View and Bosphorus View.  The sizes are the same, so upgrade to the Bosphorus to get a beautiful view both during the day and at night. I suggest the one bedroom suite if you prefer a larger room with a sitting area so that one can enjoy reading while the other takes a rest. The junior suite is a bit smaller but still has great space.

The location of this hotel is much better than its sister property in the Old City and has a resort atmosphere. Great spa and pool facilities are a welcome reward after a long day of touring or shopping. And speaking of, Istanbul is a rapidly expanding shopper’s paradise.  The Nisantasi district is within walking distance of the hotel and you will find many upscale shops including Louis Vuitton, Max Mara and Gucci in addition to local designers that are guaranteed to impress.

Another short walk from the hotel is the pedestrian area called the Maksim. It’s a great place to stroll and find an outdoor café serving typical Turkish cuisine, which is delicious, by the way. If you have traveled Europe as well as the Middle East, you’ll find that Turkey is a great combination of the two, the “order” of Europe with the “flavor” of the Middle East.

Although our visit to Istanbul was short, it left a great impression. The city is clean and the locals are friendly, much more so than you are likely to expect. We visited all the “must see” sights including the Blue Mosque, St. Sophia and Topkapi Palace, which is available for private tours, gatherings and events.
Dating back to 1465, the palace was home to 26 Ottoman Sultans for almost 300 years.  It is now a fascinating museum where you can visit the sultans’ private quarters and the rooms of the harem.  On our tour, Chef Roy will be hosting a gala dinner here. I could visualize in my mind what that the event is going to be like, and if his cuisine is anything like what we have experienced with Chef Roy in the past, it’s going to rank right up there as one of the best!
From Istanbul we ventured by way of Turkish Airways to Cappadocia. This area in Central Anatolia is best known for its unique moon-like landscape, underground cities, cave churches and houses carved in the rocks. The flight was short, only 45 minutes, and Turkish Airways was a pleasant surprise. Our drive to Cappadocia was about an hour. A new airport will be in service by the time we return in just under a year, which will further reduce the drive time.
I wasn’t sure what to expect from Cappadocia. I had heard about it from a few people who have visited but until you actually go, words simply can’t describe the beauty of this place.  Our rooms at Anatolian Houses (http://www.anatolianhouses.com.tr), which was our home for the next 2 nights, were amazing. They are completely carved out of rock and built into the sides of caves. This is definitely the most unique hotel experience I have ever had. We loved it – very cool, very interesting and very comfortable accommodations.
While viewing some of the other hotels in the region, we came across the brand new Cappadocia Cave Resort (http://www.cappadociaonline.com/capphot/ccr.htm).  While we would certainly recommend the Anatolian Houses, Cappadocia Cave Resort takes it one step further with private balconies that overlook the landscape, a huge spa, open air pool, rooftop café bar, sushi bar and karaoke bar. As the hotel is built into a cave, no two rooms are exactly alike, and the King Suites with Jacuzzi are definitely worth the upgrade.
The highlight of our journey was a hot air balloon flight that took us over this miraculous wonder. We contemplated the indescribable beauty of these rock formations, seen from 7,000 feet above sea level, as we glided past tree tops on our way back down. The experience makes for an early morning, but well worth the wake up call: peaceful and quite simply an experience not to be missed.

After our two fantastic days in Cappadocia, we made our way to Izmir, our gateway to the site of Ephesus where we overnighted at the Swissôtel Grand Efes (http://www.swissotel.com). This was once the commercial center of the western Anatolia, and a true highlight for visitors. The Celsus Library is one of the most spectacular buildings in Ephesus and, like Topkapi Palace, Chef Roy will take center stage at a private dinner during our tour. The structure was completed in 135 A.D. as a memorial for Council Julius Celsus Polemeanus and houses his tomb. Cruise lines and tour operators often reserve the venue for private functions.  On the night of our event, a small orchestra will give a private concert amidst the soft glow of candlelight while Salvatore Ferragamo serves his prized Il Borro wines.

Next, we headed for Bodrum on the Aegean Coast to rest up for a few days before returning to our day-to-day. Bodrum is gorgeous and we chose to spend the next three days at the Kempinski Hotel Barbaros Bay (http://www.kempinski-bodrum.com). While there, be sure to venture out in a traditional wooden gulet for a day of rest and relaxation and perhaps even a dip in the Aegean Sea. Try an array of Turkish delights in the Six Senses spa or spend a day kayaking through crystal blue waters.

From Bodrum we returned to Istanbul for our departing international flight. I recommend adding a night here on the back end of your itinerary to avoid concerns about delayed departing flights. Plus, any shopping opportunities missed on the front end can be made up here.

Curiosity piqued?  I encourage anyone who is thinking about Turkey, but questioning whether it’s the right time, to make it next on their list of top destinations. If you traveled to Istanbul years ago, it has certainly changed. Turkey is poised for rapid growth in tourism, and with the strength of the Euro in other parts of Europe, I would encourage everyone to visit now. If you do get resistance from friends or family members about considering a trip to Turkey, you have my word that once your party arrives and begins to experience the history, culture, people, food and wine (yes, even the wine is good!), everyone will truly love it, and be grateful that they visited before it’s too late!

To learn more about a customized vacation in Turkey contact Travel + Leisure SuperAgent Malaka Hilton, President and CEO of Admiral Travel Gallery in Sarasota, Florida at 888.722.3401.

Recommended 12-Day Itinerary

Day 1: Arrive Istanbul
Evening river cruise along the Bosphorus

Arrange a private tour of the Sakip Sabanci Museum where you view calligraphy, Ottoman paintings and porcelain objects obtained by one of Turkey’s wealthiest families.

Dine at the Muzede Changa Restaurant, located on the museum grounds.

Overnight  Four Seasons Hotel Istanbul at the Bosphorus

Day 2: Istanbul
Morning Tour and Sightseeing
Visit the Byzantine Hippodrome – an ancient chariot racing stadium in the heart of the Old City, the Blue Mosque and St Sophia, the Church of Divine wisdom inaugurated in 537 where you view famous mosaics in the upper galleries.

Lunch at the Zeyrekhane Restaurant, previously a Byzantine Monastery and part of a church complex that is now a UNESCO Heritage Site.

After lunch visit the Church of St Savior in Chora, a must see for its beautiful mosaics and frescoes.

Spend the evening at leisure strolling along the Maksim and dine in a Turkish café.

Overnight Four Seasons Hotel Istanbul at the Bosphorus

Day 3: Istanbul
Visit the magnificent Topkapi Palace Museum.

Visit the Turkish and Islamic Art Museum to see the finest collection of Islamic artifacts in the world.

Traditional Turkish lunch in a restored Ottoman Mansion.

Enjoy a guided tour of the Istanbul Modern Art Museum.

Return to the hotel for the remainder of the afternoon at leisure and splash out on one of Istanbul’s world-class restaurants on your final night in the city.

Overnight Four Seasons Hotel Istanbul at the Bosphorus

Day 4: Istanbul to Cappadocia
Morning tour of the Grand Bazaar and the Basilica Cistern, constructed in 532 AD.

Turkish kebab lunch at Hamdi Restaurant followed by a visit to the Egyptian Spice Bazaar.

Depart Istanbul on an early evening flight to Cappadocia and transfer to hotel upon arrival.

Settle into your room and enjoy the remainder of the evening at leisure with dinner at your hotel.

Overnight Cappadocia Cave Resort

Day 5: Cappadocia

Early morning Hot Air Balloon Flight to see the distinctive landscapes of Cappadocia.

Full Day Sightseeing Excursion
Visit the Goreme Open Air Museum – the Goreme valley holds the highest concentration of rock-cut chapels and monasteries in Cappadocia.

Drive through Pasabag and Dervent Valleys to the town of Avanos – a center for pottery artisans on the banks of the Red River.

Visit a pottery workshop to meet the artisans, followed by lunch at the Bizim Ev Restaurant.

Tour the Underground City, where early Christians carved out subterranean complexes up to eight levels deep to avoid invaders from the 6th to the 9th Century.

Turasan wine tasting and dinner at Elai Restaurant.

Overnight Cappadocia Cave Resort

Day 6: Cappadocia
Full Day Sightseeing Excursion
Drive to the picturesque village of Mustafapasa – a perfectly preserved Greek village in the heart of Anatolia.

Next, venture to Kepez Valley to see the Sarica Church which was recently awarded the 2007 European Union Architectural Heritage prize.

Enjoy lunch in Somine Restaurant in the center of bustling township of Urgup. Visit the Zelve Open Air Museum, where three canyons meet in the Valley of Monks, and tour two of the most interesting churches – The Church of Grapes and the Fish Church.

View or climb the towering rock formation of Uchisar Castle.

In the evening venture out to see the Sema Ritual performed by Whirling Dervishes performed in a restored caravanserai originally built in during the days of the Silk Road.

Overnight Cappadocia Cave Resort

Day 7: Cappadocia to Izmir
Enjoy a leisurely morning at your hotel.

Try Ala Turca Restaurant for lunch and then drive to Kayseri Airport for your flight to Izmir. Arrive in Izmir and proceed to your hotel to check in.

Freshen up at your hotel and spend the afternoon strolling the streets of this ancient Aegean port. Be sure to visit the Hisar Mosque, the Kemeralti Bazaar and other historic monuments located within walking distance of your hotel.

Overnight Swissôtel Grand Efes

Day 8: Ephesus to Bodrum
Start your morning with a visit to amazing Ephesus, famous throughout the ancient world for its Temple of Artemis. Passing through the gates of Ephesus, the Hadrian Temple is one of the first monuments you will see.

Next you will see the spectacular Terrace Houses (Villas) which are among the most vivid examples of Roman domestic architecture to survive to the present.

Proceed to Celsus Library built by Julius, in his father’s honour. Celsus was the Roman governor of Asia Minor early in the 2nd Century AD.

The Great Theater, dates back to the Hellenistic period. This is where Paul was known to preach and it still used for classical performances today. The Marble Road runs between the Library of Celsus and the Great Theater.

Arrange a private tour of the Ephesus Museum followed by lunch at Artemis Restaurant in the charming village of Sirince.  Allow plenty of time for exploring and meeting the local villagers who have a talent of fortune telling, producing lovely handicrafts and making sweet fruit wines.

Visit the Basilica of St John believed to be his final resting place.

Continue onward to Bodrum visiting two ancient cities of Miletus and Didyma along the way.

Arrive to your hotel and check in.  Enjoy the remainder of the evening at leisure with dinner at your hotel.

Overnight Kempinski Hotel Barbaros Bay

Day 9: Bodrum
Enjoy the day at leisure in this seaside resort, indulging in a spa treatment or try a Turkish Bath.  In the afternoon, sail the Aegean in a traditional gulet or head out for an underwater adventure on a private dive.

Dine at the Saigon Club, a Vietnamese Restaurant at the Barboros Bay Kempinski Resort followed by cocktails with a view at the Cliffhanger Nightclub.

Overnight Kempinski Hotel Barbaros Bay

Day 10: Bodrum
Tour St. Peters Castle and the Museum of Underwater Archeology. The museum, the most important of its kind in the world, contains treasures from a series of historic wrecks discovered along Turkey’s southern shores.

Next visit the site of the Mausoleum of Halicarnassus which is Bodrum’s oldest antiquity and was one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World. It was built by Artemisia II in honor of her husband King Mausolos.

Return to your hotel in the late afternoon with the remainder of the day at leisure.

Dine at one of the many restaurants in Bodrum.

Overnight Kempinski Hotel Barbaros Bay

Day 11: Bodrum to Istanbul
Enjoy the morning at leisure before transferring to airport for flight to Istanbul.

Arrive Istanbul, transfer to airport and take advantage of the afternoon for last minute shopping and touring on your own.

Overnight at the Ceylan InterContinental Istanbul

Day 12: Depart
Transfer to the Istanbul International Airport to connect with your international flights. I recommend expediting your International departure with VIP airport service.

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Afghanistan Travel Warning

Posted on July 23, 2009
Filed Under Travel Warnings -- From www.travel.state.gov | Comments Off

The Department of State warns U.S. citizens against travel to Afghanistan. The security threat to all American citizens in Afghanistan remains critical. This supersedes the Travel Warning for Afghanistan issued September 10, 2008, to remind U.S. citizens of the security risks, including kidnapping.

No part of Afghanistan should be considered immune from violence, and the potential exists throughout the country for hostile acts, either targeted or random, against American and other Western nationals at any time. Remnants of the former Taliban regime and the al-Qa'ida terrorist network, and other groups hostile to International Security Assistance Force (ISAF)/NATO military operations, remain active. There is an ongoing threat to kidnap and assassinate U.S. citizens and Non-Governmental Organization (NGO) workers throughout the country. Afghan authorities have a limited ability to maintain order and ensure the security of citizens and visitors. Travel in all areas of Afghanistan is unsafe due to military operations, landmines, banditry, armed rivalry among political and tribal groups, and the possibility of terrorist attacks, including attacks using vehicular or other improvised explosive devices (IEDs). The security environment remains volatile and unpredictable.

Kabul is still considered at high risk for militant attacks, including rocket attacks, vehicle borne IEDs, and suicide bombings. The number of attacks in the south and southeastern areas of the country continues to be high as a result of insurgent and drug-related activity, but no part of the country is immune from attacks. More than 100 attacks were reported in Kabul over the past year, although many additional attacks were thwarted by Afghan and coalition forces. An additional 4,400 attacks occurred nationwide during the same timeframe.

Incidents have occurred with some frequency on the Kabul-Jalalabad Road (commonly called Jalalabad Road) and Kabul to Bagram Road. These roads are highly restricted for Embassy employees and, if the security situation warrants, sometimes prohibited completely.

Foreigners throughout the country continue to be targeted for violent attacks and kidnappings, whether motivated by terrorism or criminal activity. In January 2008, gunmen attacked the Serena Hotel and killed eight people, including an American contractor and a Norwegian journalist. In April 2008, an assassination attempt against Afghan President Karzai showed the continued desire of the insurgency to destabilize the Afghan government. The July 2008 bombing of the Indian Embassy in downtown Kabul, near many Western embassies and Afghan Government institutions, demonstrated the ability of the insurgents to undertake assaults within Kabul itself. In February 2009, insurgents launched a complex attack on multiple government buildings in Kabul. Rocket fire and rocket-propelled grenade (RPG) attacks have occurred frequently. In August 2008, three female Western non-governmental organization (NGO) employees, along with their male Afghan driver, were gunned down as they traveled south of Kabul. Several American citizens were kidnapped in the six-month period between October 2008 and April 2009.

Riots and incidents of civil disturbance can and do occur, often without warning. American citizens should avoid rallies and demonstrations; even demonstrations intended to be peaceful can turn confrontational and escalate into violence.

Carjackings, robberies and violent crime remain a problem. American citizens involved in property disputes -- a common legal problem -- have reported that their adversaries in the disputes have threatened their lives. Americans who find themselves in such situations cannot assume that either local law enforcement or the U.S. Embassy will be able to assist them.

From time to time, depending on current security conditions, the U.S. Embassy places areas frequented by foreigners off limits to its personnel. Potential target areas include key national or international government establishments, international organizations and other locations with expatriate personnel, and public areas popular with the expatriate community. Private U.S. citizens are strongly urged to heed these restrictions as well and may obtain the latest information by consulting the embassy Web site below.

The United States Embassy's ability to provide emergency consular services to U.S. citizens in Afghanistan is limited, particularly for those persons outside the capital. U.S. citizens who choose to visit or remain in Afghanistan despite this Travel Warning are encouraged to register with the U.S. Embassy through the State Department's travel registration Web site, https://travelregistration.state.gov, and to obtain updated information on travel and security within Afghanistan. Americans without Internet access may register directly with the U.S. Embassy. Registering makes it easier for the Embassy to contact Americans in case of emergency. The U.S. Embassy is located at Great Masood Road between Radio Afghanistan and the Ministry of Public Health (the road is also known as Bebe Mahro or Airport Road), Kabul. The phone number is +93-700-108-001 or +93-700-108-002; the Consular Section can be reached for after-hours emergencies at +93-700-201-908. The Embassy website is http://afghanistan.usembassy.gov.

Updated information on travel and security in Afghanistan may be obtained from the Department of State by calling 1-888-407-4747 toll free in the United States and Canada or, for callers outside the United States and Canada, a regular toll line at 1-202-501-4444. For further information, please consult the Country Specific Information for Afghanistan and the current Worldwide Caution , which are available on the Bureau of Consular Affairs Internet Web site at http://travel.state.gov.

Burundi Travel Warning

Posted on July 22, 2009
Filed Under Travel Warnings -- From www.travel.state.gov | Comments Off

The U.S. Department of State warns U.S. citizens of the risks of travel to Burundi and continues to caution Americans that travel outside the capital, Bujumbura, presents significant risks, especially after nightfall. The U.S. Embassy restricts travel of its personnel in Burundi, and certain areas of Bujumbura are off-limits to U.S. government personnel after daylight hours. This replaces the Travel Warning for Burundi dated January 8, 2009, to provide information regarding demobilization of rebel forces after the cease-fire agreement between these groups and the government, as well as revised information on security restrictions for Embassy personnel.

From 1993 to 2006, Burundi was plagued by a civil war that often involved non-governmental and non-combatant targets. In September 2006, the government and the last rebel group not yet party to peace accords, the PALIPEHUTU–FNL (FNL), signed a cease-fire agreement. The FNL leaders agreed to discontinue hostilities and to implement fully the cease-fire agreement. FNL rebels have since begun to demobilize as the group transitions into an officially-recognized political party. However, their presence in demobilization camps has been marked by several disturbances in the camps and surrounding communities.

Crime and banditry are still prevalent in the province of Bujumbura Rural despite the general demobilization.
Crime, often committed by groups of street children or armed bandits, poses the highest risk for foreign visitors to both Bujumbura and Burundi. Common crimes include muggings, burglaries, robberies and carjackings. Visitors should keep car doors locked, windows up, and be careful when stopped in heavy traffic due to the threat of robbery. The U.S. Embassy has received reports of armed criminals ambushing vehicles, particularly on the roads leading out of Bujumbura. Due to the lack of resources, local authorities in any part of Burundi often are unable to provide timely assistance during an emergency.

The U.S. Embassy restricts the travel of Embassy personnel in Burundi, and certain areas of the capital are off-limits to U.S. government personnel after nightfall. U.S. Government personnel are prohibited from walking on the streets after dark and from using local public transportation at any time. The Embassy’s Regional Security Officer (RSO) must pre-approve all travel outside a 30 km radius of Bujumbura, and employees must travel on an approved itinerary in two-vehicle convoys equipped with satellite phones and emergency equipment. The RSO may also place further restrictions on employee movement due to changing security conditions, such as requiring alternate routing or a security escort. Within 30 km of the city, employees may travel in single vehicles, but must check in and out with the Embassy. All employee movement outside the city after dark is forbidden. The Embassy recommends that American citizens not travel on national highways from dusk to dawn.

American citizens who travel to or remain in Burundi despite this Travel Warning are urged to contact the U.S. Embassy in Bujumbura for information on the latest Embassy security guidelines, and to register at the State Department's travel registration website. By registering, American citizens make it easier for the Embassy to contact them in case of emergency. Americans without internet access may register directly with the U.S. Embassy in Bujumbura at Avenue des Etats-Unis. The hours for non-emergency American Citizen Services are 9:00 a.m. to 12:00 p.m. and 3:00 p.m. to 5:30 p.m. on Tuesdays and Thursdays, and 9:00 a.m. to 12:00 p.m. on Fridays. The Embassy Consular section can be reached by telephone, including for after hours emergencies, at (257) 22-20-7000, or by fax at (257) 22-22-2926. Security information for American citizens in Burundi is posted at the Embassy's website.

For further information, consult the Country Specific Information for Burundi and the current Worldwide Caution, available on the Bureau of Consular Affairs Internet website at http://travel.state.gov. Updated information on travel and security in Burundi is available at 1-888-407-4747 toll-free in the U.S. and Canada, or by calling a regular toll line at 202-501-4444 from other countries. These numbers are available from 8:00 a.m. to 8:00 p.m. Eastern Time, Monday through Friday (except U.S. federal holidays).

Gorillas In The Midst – Part Three of Four

Posted on July 22, 2009
Filed Under Destinations, Travel | Comments Off

Why Rwanda’s Mountain Gorillas Should Be At the Top of your Travel List

Words and Photos by Safari Specialist, Ryan Hilton – Admiral Travel Gallery

The next 55 minutes flew by as we watched mothers and babies, sub-adults and silverbacks staring back at us as they fed, played and very slowly moved towards the far crest. Maybe 20 minutes into the sighting, Dee grabbed one of my travelers, took his camera and motioned for him to take a seat, posing with his back to a female that was 15ft away and casually feeding in a seated position. As the traveler sat down and smiled toward the camera, the animal stood up, walked over to him and placed its hand on his shoulder as if she wanted to be in the photo, too! Immediately, Dee stepped up, produced a reassuring gorilla sound, reached out to my traveler and pulled him away from the setting as the animal’s hand gently slid off his right shoulder. Since the gorilla initiated the contact I was assured that was quite okay, but I struggled to come to grips with how habituated these animals are. In several instances, I froze as individuals moved within 2 feet of me without any concern for my presence whatsoever. I was astonished at how human-like their actions were when interacting amongst themselves – body language, hand movements, head movements and, most importantly, the way the looked back at us looking at them. Dee gave us notice that our sighting would end in 5 minutes, so we fired our final shots and then stood to watch the family slowly climb to the top of the far ridge and disappear. We all stood for a while and attempted to process some of what we had just seen. We could not see or hear the animals anymore, but each of us could still feel their presence.  I knew that this would stay with me for a very long time. Within minutes we were reunited with our porters so that we could put our cameras away and have a drink of water before starting the journey back down the volcano. Getting to the wall took less than half the time it took us to get up. Along the way I found myself enjoying the walk, slipping and sliding in the mud and finding tracks and signs of the other wildlife that inhabit this forested piece of Central Africa. Beyond the wall, the stares from the locals in their fields were a little different as we glided down the steep and uneven ground back to the waiting vehicles. Or was I just a little different after my encounter?  I had now experienced and seen with my own eyes two sights I had always wanted to see: a Central African forest (sometimes referred to as the deep dark jungles of Africa), and a mountain gorilla in its natural habitat. My legs ached, my stomach was rumbling and I had consumed all the water I carried up the mountain with me, but I was surprisingly buoyant as we approached the vehicle. It was just after 3pm as we all fell back into our seats, ate a little of the packed lunches we had brought from the lodge and did our best to re-hydrate ourselves as we knew we would do it all over again tomorrow. By the time we had arrived at the lodge, still sweaty and covered with mud up to our knees, the aches in my legs had intensified, my muscles had tightened considerably and the hot shower and clean clothes were a welcome reward. The cold beer and conversation around the fire before dinner was even better. How wonderful to see the smiles and hear the recounts of interactions that other trekkers had with their respective families of gorillas. My second day was far less strenuous with the walk to the wall being 30 minutes and then only one hour to the gorilla family. This time it was the Sabyinyo group, which includes the largest of all silverbacks among the habituated families. They were in the bamboo forest, feeding on the new shoots at the base of the plant. Parts of the forest are very dense, and the gorillas would appear and then disappear, only to reappear again somewhere else. Quite ghost-like, indeed. Still fairly clean and not all that fatigued, I was back at Virunga Lodge in time for lunch and eager to enjoy the remainder of the afternoon. My Conclusion Is This If you have ever wanted to see these animals in their own environment, I encourage you to plan and go now.  The fate of the world’s 700 remaining gorillas hangs in a delicate balance of political and environmental forces, and they may not be accessible or available to travelers the way they are today in as few as twenty years. Social instability and contraction of a virus as a result of exposure to humans are the two greatest threats to the gorillas that make the Virunga Massif their home.  The conflict in eastern DRC has further reduced their range and threatens to involve Rwanda and Uganda. Traces of human viruses have been detected in Mountain Gorilla samples taken from the field among gorilla families that are visited by humans every day. Should either of the above occur, travelers will loose the ability to view these majestic animals in their natural habitat altogether.  None of these incidents have a positive impact on the Mountain Gorillas and the state of their conservation. When you go, do not expect to be immersed in the wilds of the deep, Dark Continent.  This is a densely populated region, and you can expect to see 200,000 to 300,000 people every day before you encounter the gorillas. Make sure you carry the best camera equipment you have. I found that the wide-angle zoom options worked best. TO BE CONTINUED… The Mountain Gorilla Veterinary Project Please take some time to learn more about this under-funded operation and the work they do by visiting the website for Mountain Gorilla Veterinary Project at www.mgvp.org. About The Virunga Lodge Set high on the top of a hill that overlooks both Lake Bulera and Lake Ruhondo, each of the eight guest rooms and all common areas afford amazing views of the lakes. This property has been identified as one of the most environmentally friendly stays in Africa with its bucket showers and dry human waste management system. Hospitality is warm and friendly and all staff members are very accommodating. The kitchen is able to work with travelers who have special dietary requirements and requests. To learn more about the Gorilla Tracking Safari in addition to the full range of African Safari experiences, contact Conde Nast Traveler-Recommended Safari Specialist, Ryan Hilton of Admiral Travel Gallery (www.admiraltravel.com) in Sarasota, Florida at 888.722.3401. // –>

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Boutique Hotels You Haven’t Heard Of

Posted on July 19, 2009
Filed Under Andrew Harper, Destinations, Travel | 2 Comments

By: Andrew Harper

Andrew Harper is the pseudonym of a gentleman traveler who, frustrated by commercially driven travel coverage, began writing his own candid reviews of smaller, unique hotels. The Hideaway Report, which began as a small newsletter for friends and family, is now one of the most distinct voices in luxury travel.

Impatient with pretense and skeptical of passing trends, Andrew Harper has an abiding passion for classic hospitality and refined service amid peaceful surroundings. He is on the road for several months each year, and hotels are his second home.

These are his recommendations for Boutique Hotels :

The Goring
Location: Central London, near Buckingham Palace and Victoria Station

Andrew Harper’s take: “The 71-room Goring Hotel (view slideshow) is a delightful small property within a stone’s throw of the Queen’s back garden at Buckingham Palace. You won’t find a pool or a high-tech gymnasium here, but if you’re an Anglophile, you’ll be delighted by the property’s winningly frumpy country-house decor: cream and lemon diamond-pane wallpaper over painted wainscoting, bronze damask curtains, mahogany headboards, and ginger-jar lamps. I once enjoyed a classic English lunch of roast beef with horseradish and bread sauce, Yorkshire pudding, roasted potatoes, and Brussels sprouts here. It’s almost impossible to find a meal like this in London anymore.” Cost: Doubles from $340

Masseria Torre Coccaro
Location: Puglia, a region of southeastern Italy that’s still being discovered by visitors

Andrew Harper’s take: “Set in the midst of a stone-walled grove of olive and almond trees, the heart of the 39-room Masseria Torre Coccaro (view slideshow)is a 16th-century fortified farmhouse originally designed to ward off the depredations of Saracen pirates. Accommodations are decorated in a rustic-elegant style with whitewashed walls, gauzy cotton curtains, and wool carpets. No contemporary comfort is lacking: There is a spa, a beach club, and several rooms have plunge pools and Jacuzzis. I particularly recall the smell of the olive-wood logs that were supplied to make a fire one chilly June night here.” Cost: Doubles from $340

La Résidence
Location: Hue, in central Vietnam, the country’s former imperial capital, known for its ornately carved buildings and monuments

Andrew Harper’s take: “Anyone making the journey to Vietnam and passing on Hue would be making a serious mistake. La Résidence (view slideshow) is a superb small hotel housed within the former governor’s mansion. Set beside the Perfume River, it is a handsome white structure, with two new wings embracing a central garden and exceptionally inviting pool. The interior of the hotel has been refurbished in an Art Deco style, and many of the 122 rooms and suites offer fine views of the river. After a day spent hiking up, down, and over ancient tombs and temples, it’s a joy to sink into the cool waters of the hotel’s gorgeous pool.” Cost: Doubles from $230

Madrona Manor
Location: Healdsburg, the hippest town in California wine country

Andrew Harper’s take: “Healdsburg’s Madrona Manor dates from 1881, when it was the estate of a wealthy businessman. The fine three-story Victorian house has intricate gingerbread details and a handsome mansard roof, as well as charming period-piece interiors. The 22 rooms and suites are housed within five buildings, including the old carriage house and the school that once educated the children of the estate. Adding greatly to the Manor’s appeal is its excellent restaurant. The food is first-rate, and chef Jesse Mallgren uses fresh produce from the hotel’s own gardens.” Cost: Guestrooms from $220

The Alexis Hotel
Location: The heart of downtown Seattle

Andrew Harper’s take: “After an extensive and much-needed $10 million renovation, the lovely Alexis Hotel now enjoys a solid position in the ranks of Seattle’s best hotels. Its First Avenue location puts it within convenient walking distance of Pioneer Square’s art galleries, the bustling waterfront, and all the pleasures of Pike Place Market. Inside, the Alexis embodies solid comfort with a contemporary cast—stainless-steel beds and exposed brick walls, for instance. I particularly appreciated the afternoon wine reception for guests, which provided a nice capper to a day of active exploration around town and the civilized prelude to a terrific dinner at Union.” Cost: Doubles from $299

Convento de São Saturnino
Location: Sintra, one of the prettiest and most historic towns in Portugal

Andrew Harper’s take: “Located in Sintra, about a half-hour’s drive from Lisbon, the Convento de São Saturnino is a rambling warren of Mediterranean-style buildings that was once a derelict hamlet. Every room is furnished with flea-market finds and objets d’art from around the world. You won’t find televisions, telephones, Web access, or air-conditioning, but you will be treated to truly remarkable ocean views. I woke up here one morning to the cries of seagulls, a soft salt-tinged breeze, and one of the most beautiful views I’ve ever seen—a green valley funneling toward the Atlantic Ocean. A very peaceful place.” Cost: Doubles from $235

Hôtel Particulier Montmartre
Location: Paris’s 18th arrondissement, perhaps its most romantic neighborhood

Andrew Harper’s take: “This handsome late-18th-century house, now the five-room Hôtel Particulier Montmartre (view slideshow), is hidden away in a little-known part of Montmartre that is every bit as elegant and worldly as better-known districts such as the 6th or 7th arrondissements. A perfect choice for those who want to get away from the madding crowds and who also appreciate contemporary design, the Hôtel Particulier is one of the most romantic addresses I’ve found in Paris for many years. I woke from a nap one Indian summer afternoon here and listened to the sound of the boules cracking at the Montmartre boulodrome (bocce court) just outside. No place in Paris better channels what the city was like during its Belle Époque heyday.” Cost: Junior suite from $540

The Inn at Abeja
Location: Walla Walla, the seat of southeastern Washington’s wine (and onion) region

Andrew Harper’s take: “Abeja’s relaxed hospitality starts with a glass of the estate’s excellent cabernet sauvignon, offered when you check in at the carriage house, behind sliding barn doors. Five rustic cottages constitute the accommodations here, and the only activity on-site is a leisurely wine tasting, by appointment. This haven of tranquility is usually booked far in advance, and reservations for special weekends are assigned by lottery! One afternoon, I enjoyed a peaceful creek-side stroll here past gardens, vineyards, and wheat fields.”  Cost: Cottages from $215

Gregans Castle Hotel
Location: County Clare, Ireland, near the Burren, an area strewn with limestone caves and ancient ruins

Andrew Harper’s take: “In many ways, Gregans Castle is the embodiment of the perfect Irish hideaway. It’s not really a castle at all but a gracious country house dating from the 1750s that has been gently updated over the years. Wide bow windows look out across 15 acres of flower gardens to the shimmering expanse of Galway Bay. And this being Ireland, Gregans has a very congenial bar, which was particularly welcome after a sodden day on the mystic Burren. The perfect antidote to the wet chill was a restorative pint and a pleasant interlude of lively chat.” Cost: Doubles from $270

Hacienda Los Lingues
Location: Central Chile’s Colchagua Valley, a wine-growing region that’s been touted as “the next Napa”

Andrew Harper’s take: “Owned by the same family for more than 300 years, Los Lingues, a lovingly preserved 17th-century retreat, captures the essence of rural Chile. Located about two hours south of Santiago via the Pan-American Highway, the 18 comfortable lodgings in the 350-year-old hacienda are outfitted with hand-carved furnishings, Oriental rugs, and old-fashioned baths. I particularly recommend a horse ride through the vineyards at sunset.” Cost: Doubles from $225

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