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World Wide Will Galapagos Adventure – Day Four, Santa Cruz

Posted on May 26, 2010
Filed Under Destinations, World Wide Will Adventures | Comments Off

There is nothing quite like starting off your morning with a swim. Particularly if what you are swimming in are the warm equatorial waters of the Pacific ocean. You really do have to pinch yourself every now and then on this trip.

After a hearty breakfast we put on our wetsuits and headed out in the pangas to a spot of calm water just off Santa Cruz Island. This was our second snorkeling adventure and it was obvious that everyone was more comfortable in the water at least until we spotted the sharks. OK, so they told us we would see sharks and they told us that they would not hurt us.  However, it was still a bizarre experience to look down and see these ancient underwater predators cruising beneath you. Lots of them actually. But you know, I would give anything in the world for the experience.

The sharks were beautiful creatures. They moved gracefully through the water close to the bottom. After I got over the initial shock and slight fear I started to swim down towards them so that I could get better pictures. They paid me no mind one way or the other. And interestingly enough, most of the fishes did not seem to be bothered at all by their presence. I say most because there were about five of a blue and yellow variety that suspiciously became my new best friends. I was thrilled at first but when it became apparent to me that I was now Operation Human Shield I quickly shooed them away. I was not about to get in between anybody’s breakfast.

After our morning snorkel we dried off and rested our salty limbs on the back deck of the Evolution as we headed closer to Santa Cruz. Giant outcrops of long expired volcanoes dotted the sea behind us as we watched an impromptu display of stingrays arching out of the blue waters, soaring briefly in the air and then crashing back into the ocean. Another amazing site and it was not even lunch yet.

Once everyone was on board we headed onto the island. We were greeted by the usual entourage of marine iguanas. Their black bodies blended into the dark lava rocks of the shoreline as they watched us disembark from our boats. Once we were on land we headed up the dock to a bus that was waiting for us. We drove to the Charles Darwin Research Station for a tour of its world famous tortoise breeding program. At the center we got to see Lonesome George, the last surviving member of the Pinta Island subspecies and we learned about the vital work being done to study and preserve Galapagos wildlife.

After leaving the center we headed up into the forested highlands of the island to look for wild giant tortoises. We stopped for lunch at a great local spot and had BBQ and fresh fruit then headed into the open grass areas behind the restaurant in search of the gentle giants that graze these parts. We saw so many tortoises that I stopped counting. These creatures were amazingly massive with some estimated to weigh 500 pounds or more. Despite a few grunts they were not at all bothered by our presence and were very obliging when it came to pictures.

While in the highlands we also explored the forest and walked around a pair of craters named Los Gemelos. We saw vermillion flycatchers and we even got to explore an underground lava tube. The misty forest was quite a departure from the usual scenery. The diversity of the island’s terrain and wildlife was amazing and exposed us to a side of the Galapagos that I never imagine existed.

We left the highlands and headed back to the village of Puerto Ayora for some free time to walk around and get a sense of what life for the human inhabitants of the Galapagos is like. After some shopping and an ice cream bar or three we got back on the pangas and headed to our floating home away from home. It was a wonderful day filled with sharks, scientists, dragons and giants. Yep, you really do have to pinch yourself every now and then on this trip.

World Wide Will Galapagos Adventure – Day Three, Espanola Island

Posted on April 5, 2010
Filed Under Destinations, Travel, World Wide Will Adventures | 1 Comment

Ever find yourself daydreaming about turquoise water lapping over a stark white sandy beach? You know the dream I’m talking about. You’re completely alone, toes digging into fine sand and a temperate sun warming you from the outside in. The sounds of sea lions playing in the distance, barking at each other and splashing in the cool surf, are carried in on salty sea breezes. An old straw-hat shades your eyes as you gaze out onto a landscape painted by more shades of blue than you ever knew existed. That dream, my friends, is how the day ends on Espanola.

But, I am getting ahead of myself. Let me start at the beginning, breakfast aboard the Evolution. I am not much of a breakfast man. I will opt for an extra few minutes sleep over sausage and biscuits most any day. However, I have learned that you want a solid meal in you before you start the day when you are on an International Expeditions journey. First of all, you will have very few opportunities in your life to start the day with fresh fruit, real South American coffee and a perfectly fried egg. Secondly, when your to-do list for the day includes snorkeling, hiking and swimming with sea lions, you are going to need some serious energy.

After breakfast we suited up and boarded our pangas (small boats) and headed to a sheltered expanse of open water for some snorkeling. This first day in the water was more of a warm-up for the rest of the trip when we would be on some more serious snorkeling adventures. Nonetheless, the experience was fantastic. The water was so clear it was like swimming in an aquarium. Swarms of bright blue and yellow fish schooled around us and practically posed for pictures. Bright green sea urchins clung to rocky outcrops in fluorescent, prickly clusters and red starfish decorated the sandy ocean floor in aquatic constellations. Suddenly, we were joined by a couple of curious sea lions that raced by us leaving jet streams of tiny bubbles in their wake. One swam so close to me that the entire frame of my camera was filled with nothing but his whiskery chin. It was so exciting that only when my muscles began to burn did I realize that we had been in the water almost an hour.

Our return to the Evolution was as hospitable as always. Round tables draped in white linens hosted a bounty of skewered fruit, fresh pastries and icy, cold pitchers of fresh star fruit juice. We shucked ourselves out of our wetsuits and dried off with soft towels handed to us by the crew and settled into our fresh buffet. With the platters reduced to pastry crumbs and bare skewers we all headed to our cabins for a short siesta.

The clanging of the ship’s bell called an end to my nap. This was my cue that lunch was ready and it was time to start collecting my things for the afternoon excursion to the island of Espanola. Our arrival on the stark white sandy beach of Espanola’s Gardner Bay got my heart pumping. The sheer beauty of the island was almost overwhelming to my senses. Sea lions lounged in groups that dotted the beach and Sally Lightfoot crabs scrambled to get out of our way. Our naturalist took us across the beach and into the heart of the island. Along the way we saw Galapagos doves, Hood mocking birds and a few of the remaining albatrosses who had not yet left their nests. We also got a chance to see some beautiful Galapagos hawks soaring above – looking for an afternoon snack. When we arrived at the far side of the island we came to massive cliffs overlooking the Pacific.

Perched on the rocky cliffs were red marine iguanas. These striking red creatures are found only on this island. Hundreds of crimson red bodies stand out in stark contrast to the black volcanic cliffs. Juvenile albatrosses also line the steep cliffs as they stretch their massive wings out to catch the wind. These feathered giants are so large they need the height of the cliffs and the ocean winds to launch them into the air. Interestingly, once airborne, they will not land again until they return to the island next year to breed. Other notable cliff dwellers include the beautiful blue-footed boobies and the pirating frigate bird.

The view from the vantage point of the cliffs is spectacular. Sea birds of all sorts soar, dive and perch on the rocky outcrops. From here you can see how the frigate bird got its reputation as the pirate of the Galapagos. Less prone to fish for themselves, they ambush boobies in mid-air and steal their catches from them. You can also see Espanola’s famous blowhole as it converts the powerful dark blue waves of the Pacific into 90-foot columns of white frothy sea water. It is easy to see why the guides choose this vista as the perfect spot to take a seat and rest for a while.

From the cliffs we made our way back to the sandy beach of Gardner Bay to relax and take a moment to absorb all that the day has brought. The group disperses along the beach – each person finding their own sandy patch of paradise. It is here that began this post, resting my bones on the warm sand under the late afternoon sun. As I listen to the sizzling sound of the calm surf retreating from the beach and back into the baby blue waters of the bay, I let my mind go to making important decisions such as “Will I have a cold beer or a tart margarita when I get back to the Evolution?” and “Will I take my chosen adult beverage on one of the plush couches on the back deck lounge or in the warm bubbles of the hot tub on the front deck?” Decisions, decisions…

World Wide Will Galapagos Adventure – Day Two, San Cristobal Island/Cerro Brujo

Posted on March 15, 2010
Filed Under Destinations, Travel, World Wide Will Adventures | 3 Comments

Morning came early and it was time for a quick breakfast before meeting our group. These first meetings always make me a little nervous because I can get terribly shy around new people. Fortunately my traveling companion is fearless so this makes introductions much easier. I really don’t know why I get butterflies. As usual, everyone is super nice and conversation about our upcoming adventure calms my nerves and excites my mind.

We all loaded onto the bus and transferred to the airport for our flight to the Galapagos Islands. The adventure started instantly and we arrived on San Cristóbal Island. We were met at the harbor by not only our crew but by some very lazy sea lions. The striking beauty of the Galapagos islands was all around us. Boats ranging from large passenger vessels to small fishing crafts dotting the deep blue harbor waters. Some of the small boats buzzed with fishermen while others had been pirated by lounging sea lions looking to warm up under the bright equatorial sun. Our new home for the next seven days, The Evolution, sat majestically in the back of the harbor. Its sharp black bow rising out of the blue waters looked almost like a waving hand that was welcoming us to the Galapagos.

There was no time wasted and our adventure began almost instantly. We boarded the ship, briefly checked out our rooms then dashed to the dining room where we were served a hearty lunch. While we ate lunch, the Evolution and its crew carried us to our first destination, Kicker Rock. This giant volcanic remnant sliced upward and out of the deep ocean like a beacon. The deep blue waters of the Pacific framed the majestic rock against the most beautiful blue sky. We circled the rock and learned the story of how it came to be and where it got its name. We learned we were looking at the remains of what used to be a giant volcano that rose from the sea millions of years ago. We also learned that the name, Kicker Rock, came from its resemblance, at certain angles, to a large boot. I have to say the boot theory was a bit of a stretch for me but the beauty of the rock was so striking it did not matter.

After circling Kicker Rock a few times we headed to Cerro Brujo. We landed on a powder-white sandy beach that we learned was close to the exact spot where Darwin first landed in the Galapagos many years ago. To the right of the beach was a large colony of sea lions. Our time on this beach included a walk around the area looking at the wildlife. I saw the first of many blue-footed boobies, more sea lions and scores of the now famous Darwin finches. We also saw iguanas, ghost crabs and my favorite, the Sally Light-Foot crab. When the walk ended we had two options before returning to the ship. We could explore the tidal area or we could go back to the landing spot and take a swim.

Now, I love to explore but I could not pass on the opportunity to go swimming in the beautiful baby blue waters that surrounded the beach. So, my buddy and I left the group and made our way back to “the swimming hole.” On our way back we passed scores of curious sea lions that watched our every step with inquisitive eyes. When we found a good spot to jump in we took our shoes off and plunged into the cold water. It was brisk but very refreshing after walking around under the hot sun. The sand on the bottom was so fine it felt like clouds under my feet.

We swam for a good 15 minutes when I noticed that my friend was looking at me with the strangest expression on his face. It was not fear necessarily but it was not calm either. Then I heard this noise behind me. It sounded like a cross between a snort and a sneeze. My heart jumped into my throat and I yelped like a frightened child. When I spun around I found two big brown eyes staring directly at me. It was a young sea lion and he had come to, well, to play. I let my heart slow some and then I dove back under the water and started swimming.

The rule here is that you cannot touch the wildlife but the wildlife can touch you. So as I swam around, my new found friend swam beside me. He circled me a few times then swam off, no doubt unimpressed with my lack of grace in the water. I don’t think I stopped smiling until I finally fell asleep later that night. I know that I did not stop talking about it until well after dinner. What an experience of a lifetime.

When we got back to the ship the crew greeted us with snacks and fresh juice laid out elegantly for us on the back deck. We had a short break before dinner time so after a few bites we grabbed a beer and headed to the hot tub at the front of the boat. The trip was officially off the hook at this point and it was not even the end of our first day on the boat. Amazing.

Dinner was fantastic and the wine was cold and crisp. We were all quickly becoming new best friends and had begun to share some of our favorite stories. I am not sure I remember my head touching the pillow that night. The excitement and adventure of the day had wiped me out. Best of all, this was just the beginning and I knew it.

World Wide Will Galapagos Adventure – Day One, Guayaquil

Posted on February 28, 2010
Filed Under Destinations, Travel, World Wide Will Adventures | 1 Comment

This adventure started with an extra day in Ecuador’s massive port city of Guayaquil. We were met at the airport by the lovely Isla, one of International Expeditions’ (IE) organizers on the ground in Ecuador. Her energetic spirit jolted us out of our jet lag haze and reminded us of the wonderful congeniality that is so typical among South Americans. We arrived in the middle of the night so we were taken directly to the hotel where we poured ourselves into the bed and crashed into a deep sleep.

When we woke up we began exploring the city of Guayaquil. Even though it was early, the city was already bustling with businessmen, shoppers and street vendors. We walked down the main street, Avenue 9 de Octobre, towards the massive Rio Guaya. As we meandered through the city we shopped and ate empanadas from little food vendors that have literally set up shop in little holes in the walls of the city’s buildings.

About halfway through our journey we detoured to the right and checked out Park De Iguanas. This considerable patch of green in the middle of the city has for years been home to scores of feral land iguanas. These large and docile lizards stroll around the park eating and interacting with the locals.  Their beautiful colors seem to blend perfectly with the colorful facades of the surrounding buildings. On one side of the park an imposing cathedral rises into the air as if it is keeping watch. Bronze statues dot the green park and offer resting perches for the pigeons who, by the way, seem to have no problem pecking around the iguanas in search of a bite to eat. I think the true magic of this park is that somehow all of these unrelated items seem to find a beautiful synergy and harmony that ultimately makes the park what it is.

After spending some time in the park we headed back to the main street and continued on our trek to the river side where we would find the city’s newest addition, the Malecon 2000. This beautiful new boardwalk hugs the river bank and winds along with the water from Avenue 9 de Octobre to the base of Cerro Santa Ana (Santa Ana Hill). This boardwalk is jam packed with bars, restaurants, water features and playing areas for the kids. There is also a convention area, an IMAX theater and a museum all with striking views of the water. We stopped for a traditional Ecuadorian lunch of mixed seafood. Ceviche itself is not necessarily indigenous to Ecuador but the way that it is served certainly is. The tart seafood is served with a basket of popcorn that is intended to be sprinkled over the top. The concept turns out to be brilliant because the salt of the popcorn brightens the tang of the citrusy seafood and the textures of both compliment each other well.

After washing lunch down with a couple of icy cold local beers, appropriately called Pilsner, we were refreshed and ready to continue our walk along the river. Where the boardwalk ended the steps of Cerro Santa Ana began. From the base of this massive hill we began our ascent to the top where we were promised striking views of the city and the river from atop the hill’s famous lighthouse. There were about 450 steps to the top. We wound our way up and around through neighborhoods, shops, bars and cafes.  Conversation and laughter spilled out of the convivial cafes where beautiful South Americans drank coffee and watched breathy tourists struggle their way up the steep hillside. I thanked God for the many early mornings at the gym as I pushed up the steep steps towards the top of the hill.

I have to say that the reward at the summit was certainly worth it. At the top stood the beautifully modest Santa Ana chapel and it’s tall slender neighbor, the Santa Ana lighthouse. The view of the city of Guayaquil and the meandering river was everything that was promised. The hills and valleys of the city were dotted with colorful cottages and building facades. The Rio Guaya was truly massive and from the elevated view you could easily see that it was as impressively wide as it was long. The entire setting was picture perfect and again worth the climb. From the top you could also see the other main attraction of Cerro Santa Ana, the Pirate Ship Building. Best I could tell this faux pirate ship was actually a restaurant and bar. It looked just like the bow of a giant pirate ship complete with statues of swashbuckling pirates complete with eye patches and wooden peg legs. As wonderful as the view was the day was starting to fade and I did not want to attempt the steep descent in the dark so it was time to go.

On the way down the steps the cafes were beginning to give way to the bars. Music was drowning out the conversation and only the laughter of the patrons managed to cut through the deep bass thumping. I had planned on stopping in for another cold beer on the way down but thought the better of it as I peered down the steep alleyways and sidewalks of the neighborhood. Speaking of the steep steps, I am amazed to this day with the skill and agility of the local women who not only managed to glide beautifully up, down and across from bar to bar but doing so in dainty high heel shoes and martini glasses in hand. I still don’t understand how they accomplished this feat considering I was in tennis shoes and barely getting by. And, I had not had a beer since lunch.

Having made it safely off the steps of Serro Santa Ana, the rest of the evening’s walk back to the hotel was easy and beautiful. The sight of the setting sun on the river and the awakening of the flickering lights of the city made for a beautiful show. Once we made it back to the hotel we showered and headed down for a quick dinner before crashing. The Hotel Oro Verde where we stayed had several restaurants and bars in the lobby. Considering we were about to spend the next seven days eating arguably the best Ecuadorian food prepared by the chefs of the Evolution, we chose a Swiss Fondue restaurant. Dinner was wonderful and consisted of one cheesy delight after another. Best of all the walk back was nothing more than an elevator ride.

It was a wonderful first day and at the end of it, despite the exhaustion from the day’s exploration, I still found myself unable to sleep through the anticipation of the next day. It was hard to believe that I was twelve hours away from one of the most beautiful and natural places on Earth, the Galapagos.

The World Wide Will Amazon Adventure – Day Eight

Posted on November 9, 2009
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As the sun came up this morning we could see that the giant water lilies had completely clogged the entrance to the small river that led up to the second ranger station. So, instead of sending the skiffs in the entire Amatista began plowing her way up the small river through the lawn-like green waters. The bow of the boat cut through the lilies like an ice ship plowing through a frozen Arctic sea.

Once we were in the clear the skiff boats were launched and we were skimming across the still water towards the second ranger station where out lunch was waiting on us. On our way we ran into another floating pasture but this time the small skiffs managed to plow through. With some effort of course. Again, the skill and experience of our skiff drivers proved invaluable in our expeditions.

Finally, haven broken through our series of barriers, we were able to start catching some views of the vast wildlife along the banks of the river. We saw a lot of monkeys including howlers, sakes, cappuccinos and squirrels. Lunch was at the second ranger station, which used to be an old Japanese research facility. International Expeditions is the only organization of it’s kind that is allowed this far into the reserve so everything is pristine and untouched. The oddness of the clean lined Asian architecture set the building apart from the jungle around it. The resulting aesthetic was strange and surreal but fascinating. It was the perfect setting for the pinnacle of the morning excursion, which proved to be an amazing and a once in a lifetime adventure.

The afternoon brought a good rest as we relaxed on the boat and escaped the warm sun and jungle air.  We lounged under the dark green tarp of the boat’s upper deck, drank ice cold beers, listened to the band and snacked on more plantains and fruits from our earlier jungle excursions. The band was fantastic as always. It never ceases to amaze me to be sitting on large upper deck listening to such a great and fun band that is made up entirely of the boat’s crew. From the cabin boy to the skiff driver almost the entire crew gets involved in one way or another. They have truly been one of the highlights of the trip.

The draw of sleep comes quickly and heavily again as another wonderful day winds down. I do not want to think about tomorrow being our last night on the boat so I set my mind on all of the monkeys we saw today and on how good the cold beer was when we got back. My heavy eyelids gave way and I was sound asleep in no time.

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